Iconic British fashion brand opens its doors for the first time on Phuket, at the luxury Central Phuket – Floresta shopping mall
In 2018, Phuket well and truly became part of Asia’s luxury shopping scene, with the opening of a new facility adjacent to the long established Central Phuket – Festival . Named Central Phuket – Floresta , the intention was to create a luxury retailing landmark on the island, a place where world famous brands could pitch their tents and collectively create an opulent marketplace to rival any of those found in capital cities around the world.
Six years on, the list of luxury goods retailers in the Floresta wing reads like a ‘Who’s-Who’ of the world’s top ritzy brands: Dior, Hermès, Versace, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Prada and Gucci to name but a few.
The latest superstar brand to arrive is Burberry , the quintessential British fashion company, made famous by its distinctive beige, red and grey check pattern. We are taking a look at the Burberry 2024 Autumn collection, but let’s first explore some of the history behind this famous name.
Burberry was first registered as a business in a small English town called Basingstoke, just west of London. It was founded by Thomas Burberry in 1856, when he was only twenty-one years old. The mission of the young Burberry was to create outdoor clothing that would better protect the wearer from the inclement British weather; clothes at that time were not particularly waterproof, and you either got too hot, too cold or too wet.
Burberry’s greatest invention was the fabric that became known as ‘Gabardine’. The word gabardine was first used by William Shakespeare in The Merchant of Venice when he described Shylock as wearing a “Jewish gabardine”, but Thomas Burberry adopted it for his revolutionary new breathable, weatherproof and hard wearing fabric. Gabardine was patented in 1888, and ever since then it has become synonymous with a particular outdoor garment: the Tielocken coat, which we know today as the Trench coat.
Being a beneficiary of war is never the deliberate strategy of a company, but Burberry was in the right place, at the right time, and with the right product when the global conflicts of the 20th century came about. However, my abiding memory of a Burberry trench coat comes from Hollywood, specifically when Audrey Hepburn wore a Burberry trench coat like a dress in the film “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”.
Today’s Burberry is not just known for its ‘outdoor’ garments, the brand encompasses all elements of the fashion world, and for all age groups: clothing for women, men, children, accessories, the ubiquitous Burberry scarf and beauty products. Bringing this luxury line-up to consumers, Burberry operates over 500 stores around the globe, and has a thriving online business.
British designer Daniel Lee originally made his name with Bottega Veneta, but in 2023 he was appointed Chief Creative Officer by Burberry, with the Autumn / Winter 2023 being his debut collection. We are taking a look at this years’ Autumn collection, where Lee showcases his modern look, but still rooted in British culture, he expresses a style with attitude, elevated through fabrication and detail.
One thing not to do, with an iconic name such as Burberry, is mess with its brand identity and brand codes. These are treasured and rendered into the 2024 collection: muted classic colours featuring alongside earthy tones, and a new expression of Burberry Check. This collection embodies relaxed elegance.
CLOTHING
I’m particularly impressed by the Shearling aviator jackets, some sleeveless or reworked as scarves. Oozing brand heritage the leather styles, trimmed with shearling and faux fur take influence from Burberry’s historical connections in the air, and on the race track.
Clothing is relaxed, functional, protective. Wool capes, dresses and herringbone shirts feature press-stud wraparound collars inspired by archive motoring coats. The slip dress becomes an outer garment in boiled wool with a wool lace trim.
Details are considered and unexpected. Zips adjust the shape of pleated skirts as well as replace buttons on double-breasted coats and tailored jackets. Cargo trousers in garment-dyed cotton feature press studs at the sides. The Knight bag is reconstructed as a mini skirt in grainy calf leather.
Underpinning the collection, high-neck sweaters in mohair wool are brushed for warmth and wear. Tasselled blanket scarves in wool are woven with the Equestrian Knight Design and check.
British iconography is subtly evident within the seasonal micro prints: post boxes and a bird’s eye view of a double-decker bus are characterful.
Wrap dresses in ruffled crepe jersey and velvet are studded with eyelets or floral cutouts. A loose dress in crinkled crepe has a camouflage print with a blurred watercolour effect and crushed stud detailing.
SHOES
In shoes, familiar shapes take exaggerated proportions. Wedge is a new high-heeled loafer with moccasin construction and chunky curved sole. Buck shoes in leather feature double monk straps set on a rubber sole.
Equestrian Stirrup boots, cut at the ankle or over the knee, are an elevated take on outdoors functionality. Likewise, Boulder boots, new and moulded from rubber with Burberry Check side panels, and Log shoes in heavy suede. Cosy shapes include the rubber-soled Snug boots in shearling and Pillow mules in Burberry Check .
Faux fur and chain elements trim kitten-heeled B Minnie and strappy Slinky sandals – also available as an over-the-knee boot in stretch leather. The ‘B’ metal toe cap features on nappa leather Duck pumps and on Chisel mules and sling-backs, both in leather with studded floral cutouts.
ACCESSORIES
The structured Shield Case bag is an addition to the collection, and the mini Shield Sling bag has tassels at the sides. The Knight bag returns alongside a new Rocking Horse tote made from suede with leather top handles. Also new is the leather Snip clutch, while the Trench tote, inspired by the Burberry icon, comes in leather or garment-dyed cotton canvas.
Bag colours loch, hazel, thicket and military are outdoorsy. Richer shades, like kingfisher, pop.
In jewellery, geometric designs are intricate. The B collection reworks the Burberry initial as a chain-link ring, bracelet and earrings. The Shield collection expands to include a slim set of earrings and a new interlinking infinity ring, necklace and hoop earrings inlaid with stones.
The Hollow Graphic ring and earrings develop the diamond-shaped design. Armour earrings feature pavé-set spheres within a curved cage structure.
Visit the Burberry Store on the Ground floor at Central Phuket – Floresta.
+66 76 510 824
burberry.com
