Celebrity chef and entrepreneur Tammasak Choothong has unveiled his new mothership, Alchemy Phuket, and with it a renewed centre of gravity for the island’s dining scene
By: Angela Scott
The Heart of the House: SUAY Alchemy
At the core of the complex lies SUAY Alchemy, where culinary artistry meets the soul of Asia. Better known as Chef Noi, SUAY Cherngtalay, is his original restaurant and has long embodied a reputation for modern Thai family cooking, SUAY Alchemy on the other hand looks outward – curating a pan-Asian repertoire in which Thai signatures converse with Japanese, Vietnamese and Indian inspirations. It is still “affordable fine dining”, but now with a broader canvas and a heightened sense of occasion.
The Law of Equivalent Exchange
Alchemy’s first principle holds that nothing is gained without something given in return. In that spirit, SUAY is not the only offering within Chef Noi’s ambit here – Alchemy Phuket is a constellation.
The Room: Urban Poise in a Tropical Postcode
The dining room trades beach-resort cues for the cosmopolitan polish of a great capital. Sunlight pours through an acoustically tuned atrium that hums with the energy of a New York grill; somewhere in the background, the charcoal fire breathes its quiet perfume. Along the back wall, four distinct counters – Tapas Bar, Hand Roll Bar, Charcoal Bar, and Sake & Cocktail Bar – form a culinary promenade. Seating drifts from perches at the pass to intimate niches for two, and semi-screened corners that suit celebrations of 10 to 15.
The Bars: Four Portals, One Vision
Each bar tells a different story: small plates and precision at the Tapas Bar; clean lined, knife-led precision at the Hand Roll Bar; primal heat and smoke at the Charcoal Bar; and a liquid itinerary at the Sake & Cocktail Bar that pulls the room gently from late afternoon through to the small hours.
The Tasting: A Pan Asian Progression
My meal opened at the Tapas Bar with King Crab Taraba; pearlescent strands of sweet, ocean bright crab piled into Belgium endive leaves, their delicate bitterness lifted by a blood orange salad. A shoyu sesame dressing threaded everything together with savoury warmth and a whisper of nuttiness. It was the sort of opening that strikes a chord of purity and restraint, then lingers.
An entrée arrived in the guise of a hard-boiled egg – an immaculate shell concealing a cloud-soft chawanmushi. The Japanese custard, quivering and savoury, carried whispers of dashi; a flamed morsel of foie gras brought luxurious, caramelised richness, while a subtle mushroom gel grounded the dish with foresty earthiness. It was playful in form, serious in flavour; a revelation of texture and temperature.
Next, the Charcoal bar. The catch? Baked Cod Snow Fish, its alabaster flesh barely yielding to the fork, buttery and clean. A green curry espuma drifted across the plate in airy swirls, o.ering a perfume of lemongrass, basil and green chilli to accompany the taste. On the side, a Brussels sprout salad, accenting the cod’s sweetness and the curry’s aromatics, the bright and cleverly bitter dish flaunted a fresh crunch, completing the dish in impeccable style.
For the meat course, Thai-style braised short ribs arrived glossy and yielding, the fibres surrendering at a nudge of the knife. A Thai eggplant chimichurri – a vivid, herb-aced dressing with citrusy lift – cut through the richness with welcome acidity and a peppery, garden-fresh bite. The Brussels sprout salad reappeared here as a second refrain, its crunch and faint char grounding the dish.
Dessert was presented, with a conspiratorial smile, as “The Apple”. At first glance, a perfect, lacquered fruit rested on a gravel of Belgian chocolate. At the tap of a spoon, the illusion gave way to a delicate chocolate shell and a billow of feather-light apple mousse within: crisp orchard notes, a suggestion of cream and cacao, and the faintest tartness to cleanse the palate. It was witty, balanced and, in its own way, show-stopping.
Daily Dose: Morning Rituals, All-Day Ease
At the start of the complex, next to a Japanese-inspired Zen garden, lies Daily Dose, Chef Noi’s Asian bistro. This is a different kind of vibe – one of ease, light and ritual – where mornings begin and afternoons happily stretch. The signature ramen arrives in steam kissed bowls: springy house made noodles swimming in slow simmered, marrow rich bone broth layered with pure umami depth. Coffee is a point of pride – roasted for clarity, brewed with consistency – and the Matcha Selection brings Japanese artistry to Phuket, from traditionally whisked bowls to refreshing lattes and signature blends. Pastry is delicate rather than fussy – laminated, flaky, never overly sweet – and there is always something warm from the oven that invites sharing.
The Verdict so Far, But What’s Next?
Chef Noi is still ascending! He has plans afoot for the second level: a cigar lounge and an expansive rooftop bar, poised to bring the complex’s urbane energy skywards. Alchemy Phuket is a deft act of balance: cosmopolitan poise with island warmth; fine dining rendered approachable; a pan-Asian voice fluent in its references yet unmistakably its own.
VISIT: SUAY Alchemy is open daily: 5:00pm – Midnight I Daily Dose Alchemy is open daily : 8:00am – 8:00pm.
Alchemy Phuket Address: 189/1 Srisoonthorn Rd, Si Sunthon, Thalang District, Chang Wat Phuket 83110.
Price guide: SUAY – +/- 2,500 /guest I Daily Dose +/- 850 /guest
Telephone: SUAY: +66 (0)61 172 3959 I Daily Dose: +66 (0)81 159 8845